Jordan is one of the easiest countries in the region to travel in independently: compact, well signposted, with good roads and a population accustomed to visitors.
The Jordan Pass
Buy it online before you arrive. It costs 70 to 80 dinars depending on how many days of Petra it includes, covers entry to over forty sites, and waives the 40-dinar visa fee provided you stay at least three nights. Petra alone is 50 dinars for a day, so the pass pays for itself before you count anything else. Print it or keep it on your phone; it is scanned at the airport and at every gate.
Getting around
Hiring a car is the best option: distances are short, the Desert Highway and the King Highway both run north to south, and signage is bilingual. Driving is assertive rather than dangerous; expect no lane discipline in Amman and livestock on rural roads. Fuel is cheap by European standards. The JETT bus company runs comfortable services between Amman, Petra, Aqaba and the Dead Sea, and is a reasonable alternative. Local minibuses are cheap and slow. Taxis in Amman are metered; Uber and Careem both operate.
Costs
Jordan is more expensive than its neighbours. A mid-range hotel double runs 50 to 90 dinars, a meal in a local restaurant 4 to 8, and a decent dinner 15 to 25. Site entry outside the pass, guides and desert camps add up. The dinar is pegged to the dollar at about 1.41 dollars to the dinar, which surprises people expecting a soft currency.
Safety
Jordan is stable and crime against visitors is rare. The country borders Syria, Iraq, Israel and the West Bank, and while the borders themselves are controlled, regional events do affect tourist numbers and occasionally the mood. Check current advice, avoid demonstrations, and note that the eastern border areas are restricted.
Water and health
Jordan is among the most water-scarce countries on earth and supply is rationed by neighbourhood in Amman. Do not drink tap water; bottled is universal, and refill stations are increasingly common. No vaccinations are required. Heat is the main health risk in summer.
Etiquette
Dress modestly outside resorts: covered shoulders and knees for both men and women, and a scarf for women entering mosques. Ask before photographing people, particularly women. Friday is the holy day and the weekend runs Friday to Saturday. Tipping is 10 percent in restaurants and expected for guides and drivers. Alcohol is available but not in every town, and public drinking is not done.